Legend has it that Antalya was founded when Attalos II of
Pergamum sent his servants off in all directions to find a ‘Paradise on earth’.
The city’s setting, amongst the pine forests in the foothills of the Taurus Mountains,
overlooking a wide, sweeping bay, is indeed beautiful. The view changes at
different times of the day, with the Mediterranean vivid blue or glittering
silver, and the backdrop of mountains in receding ranks of blue, grey and
purple. In some places, waterfalls cascade over cliffs into the sea below.
Antalya today is a
prosperous city of about a million people, built up around the old city centre
of Kaleici, a typical walled town with winding cobbled streets and restored
Ottoman houses. Most of the houses have a bay window projecting from the upper
storey and a courtyard garden full of olive and citrus trees at the back. We
stayed in one which has been converted into a pension – they are full of
character and the bay window is perfect for checking out the passing parade in
the streets below. The only remaining gate into the old town is Hadrian’s Gate,
built in honour of the Emperor’s visit in 130AD, so we got to walk in his
footsteps as we have done those of Julius Caesar, Octavian, Alexander,
Archimedes, Hippocrates … and countless others! The ancient port is now a
harbour for fishing boats and tourist gulets. There is no space for cruising
yachts, but a new marina is under construction a few miles further around the
bay.
You’d think we’d have had enough of archaeological museums
by now, but the one in Antalya is a must see. It has the usual Mediterranean
layers of history and prehistory, but the highlight here is the “Room of the
Gods”, a collection of fine marble statues of classical gods and emperors taken
from the theatre at Perge. It is an exceptional display, with each piece
skillfully highlighted in the darkened room. Pride of place in the museum is a
marble known as The Weary Hercules, whose bottom half was discovered by
archaeologist Jale Inan at Perge, then matched to his top half discovered in a
fine arts museum in Boston. Negotiations ensued, but as you can see, it was a
bit difficult to argue that the pieces did not belong together – and the Turks
argued that they belonged together in Antalya, close to where they originated.
Next day, appropriately enough, we journeyed out to the
ruins of Perge, about 17k out of town and easily reached on the marvelous Turkish
bus system. Perge was a Roman city which became prominent after the Trojan War
(1275 BC), though earlier relics have been found. The theatre from which most
of the marbles were excavated was closed off, but you could still get a pretty
good look at the three tiered stage, where, according to the reconstruction at
the museum, the marble gods were displayed. The University of Istanbul is still
working on the extensive site – you can’t help wondering what treasures might
lie beneath your feet as you walk the streets of the ancient city.
After a long day of walking, a visit to the
Turkish Baths was in order, so we headed down to the historic hammam a block
from our pension for a scrub down and massage - the works for about $20 each.
Terry was expecting the full Turkish wrestler treatment in the blokes’ section,
but it turned out to be quite gentle. Afterwards we found a great fish
restaurant (Chef’s) where we had a plate of fried anchovies, a plate of sardines
and a plate of calamari for TL31. You get a basic salad, dip, water and
pita bread free. So for $A16, we had dinner in a good quality restaurant
on “restaurant alley” in Antalya. That’s $A8 each. It was so good we went
back the next night and had exactly the same. Beers are a little more expensive
though in Turkey so they added $A2.50 each to the bill.
On our third day we thought we were old hands
at the bus system, so we attempted to make our way to a local beauty spot
called Duden Falls. Tip: it is much better to get a bus to the central Otogar
and then find one to your destination than to try to connect up the various
suburban routes. Apparently no-one in Turkey understands the mysteries of
suburban bus routes, but they are all too polite to tell you they can’t help
you, and will direct you very helpfully all over town. Two hours later we did
reach Duden – an extraordinary watery paradise in the middle of a featureless
outer suburb of Antalya. Freezing cold crystal clear water tumbles in torrents
down from the mountains; there are ancient fern-covered trees and caves where
you can actually wander in behind the falls to view the scenery through a
curtain of water. The park was full of Turkish families and young couples
relaxing in this cool, green, secret paradise.
Home to Finike, but not for long. Next up was
a day trip by bus to Arykanda, around 27k from here, at the foot of Falcon
Mountain. Now this was a revelation! No tour buses or souvenir shops – in fact,
no-one but us, arriving near the town of Arif Koyu where a few villagers have set up
a street market at the bus stop where the track up to the ruins begins. But what
a site it is! You hike up the hill (stopping to pay 5TL at a booth if there’s
anyone there – if there’s not, you’ll meet the guy somewhere in the park) and
discover the remains of an extensive Roman/Lycian town, built on five terraces
against the vast cliff face of the mountain. It is in better condition than any
of the other sites we’ve visited, and the different buildings are clearly
identifiable. There are even some mosaic floors still intact.
Apparently Arykanda was never admitted to full
voting rights in the Lycian League as it had the reputation of a profligate
party town, always in debt. The ruins support the story: there are three
theatres (for drama, poetry readings and music), a stadium, a large commercial
agora for shopping, and a substantial wine press – clearly a town devoted to
pleasure! The setting is amazing: sitting in the large theatre, you have a view
out over the whole valley and the surrounding mountains. Pine and cedar trees
shade the remains of the town and thyme and mint grow up between the paving
stones. Terracotta shards are everywhere – you pick up a fragment and imagine a
potter turning a clay vessel, a woman filling it with oil – two thousand years
ago!
We had this entire site all to ourselves, and
wandered freely around, imagining the lives of the people who lived there in
the second century BC.
On the way back down the track we stopped in
at the Arykanda Pension and Restaurant for a delicious lunch of grilled lamb
and their specialty – fresh trout from ponds built into the mountain streams. A
nice grilled trout sets you back 10TL – that’s about $A5 – and of course there’s
free pita, dips and water thrown in. You sit sipping your Efes beer looking out
over an awesome view of forested mountains and valleys full of orange groves,
with the ruins behind you and the sound of streams cascading and birds
everywhere. Then, just as you think it can’t get any better, a herd of
beautiful little deer comes racing down the mountainside and the restaurant
owner hands you some binoculars to check them out. We hung out in the market
for a while waiting for the bus, and got to sample some of the mountain water
that seems to gush from every tap, pipe and hole in the rock around here.
Don’t miss Arykanda if you ever happen to be
in this part of the world.
Next week we’re off to a town called Kemer to
obtain our Turkish Residency permits – about $200 gets you a “blue book” which
gives you a Turkish Tax File number so you can get into doctors and hospitals
cheaply, plus you can come and go through the airports like a Turk can.
We’re probably going to go for a year’s permit. We’re off to Cappadocia for a
4-day trip with others from the marina on the 21st, then it’s home
again on December 9th – can’t wait to see you all!