Saturday, 26 January 2013

Boat Life #1


On our recent trip home, quite a few people asked me questions about day-to-day life aboard Common Sense – what do we do about shopping, cooking, cleaning? How do we do the laundry and get rid of rubbish? What about showers and toilets? How do we get around? What do we do with all our stuff in such a small living space? So I figured it was time, while we are sitting here in Monastir for the winter, to try to capture a sense of this semi-nomadic lifestyle aboard a 42 ft (12.6 metre) sailing yacht.

So, keeping in mind that everything is more challenging than on land, let’s start with something relatively simple – laundry. We don’t have a washing machine so there are two options: hand-wash it or save it all up until you get to a marina or harbour. While we’re making a passage there isn’t really much point in changing your clothes unless you get horribly wet and miserable. You can hand-wash undies in a basin or bucket if you want/ need to, remembering that on a long passage, fresh water is precious and cannot be wasted. On parts of the Atlantic passage I was wearing so many layers that it was like an archaeological dig trying to go to the toilet – make that an archaeological dig during an earthquake – and clean clothes were the last thing on my mind. Once you’ve hand-washed things, they can be strung up colourfully on the various lines and halyards of the boat where they will be encrusted with salt spray, fine grit and rust stains before being blown overboard.

I prefer to save everything in a laundry bag until we arrive at a new marina or port. After solving the puzzle of how to check in with the Police, Harbour Control, Customs, Immigration and whoever else needs to know, the next challenge is to work out how to do the washing. In the USA, every little marina had a laundry with coin-operated washing machines and dryers, the prices and reliability of the machines varying somewhat from place to place. Many of the laundries also had book exchanges and other social amenities and were a good place to meet and chat with other boaters. In the Bahamas (where we wore far fewer clothes) it was a matter of asking around until you found the local Laundromat – typically operated by a large authoritative lady who managed quite efficiently considering the variability of the power supply in many places.

Marina laundries in Portugal were expensive – we found that a large load could be washed, dried and folded by a team of amiable local women for less than it cost to feed the marina machines with the necessary supply of tokens (which, inconveniently, had to be purchased from the office about half a kilometre away). In Morocco and Tunisia, we have had to track down local people who take in laundry. I always like to try to contribute a few Australian dollars to the local economy and it’s another way to meet folks other than our fellow cruisers. Like this lovely lady in Monastir, for example, who, as well as doing a fine job with the washing, patiently helps me to improve my French each week. Stay tuned for next week's exciting episode on creating culinary masterpieces in a two square metre  kitchen!

Friday, 18 January 2013

Where the Heart Is

We've had a wonderful few weeks catching up with dozens of old friends and loved ones and we are endlessly grateful to all the kind people who have offered us a place to stay, a meal, a coffee, a few drinks or some entertainment (including our first games of croquet and indoor beach volleyball, a surprise haircut and an early morning swim with a pug!) Thanks for all that, and for listening to our stories, even the ones you've heard before. Quite a few friends are planning to join us for some time on Common Sense over the next couple of years and we are really looking forward to welcoming them aboard.


Beach at Bunbury

Our month at home coincided precisely with a record heatwave with most days over 40 degrees Celsius, and one day the hottest ever recorded across Australia as a whole. Whew! In spite of the heat we were really able to appreciate the good things about home - the beauty of the bush and the coastline; the fact that everything looks clean, cared-for and prosperous compared to nearly everywhere else we've been, the friendliness and competence of almost everyone we dealt with in shops, offices and other services. Only real dislikes - the traffic and the prices!

Perth City from South Perth

We've decided to come home each year from now on - two years is too long away. So now it's time to head back to Common Sense - two long flights, an 18 hour layover in Doha and a three hour train trip away - and we'll see all you lovely people again in 11 months time if you don't visit us earlier, somewhere in Malta, Greece or Turkey.

Wednesday, 19 December 2012

Homeward Bound

We spent our last day in Monastir preparing Common Sense for a little rest, cleaning and securing everything and locking her up safely. Then, after completing the last few stages of the complex process of visa acquisition, we were off on a three hour train ride to Tunis, Tunisia's capital. We spent a couple of days there - and what a fantastic city it is, with the best of modern Europe and ancient Arab culture side by side. When we finally located it, the Bardo museum was a stunning highlight - a beautiful exhibition space filled with Roman mosaics and the few precious artefacts that survived the burning of nearby Carthage.

There's that Neptune bloke again
 
Then at last, after a year and ten months away, it was time to head for home. We boarded the Qatar Airways flight to Dohar (about five hours) then changed over for the ten hour flight to Perth. We were pretty impressed with the service on Qatar, especially their care and attentiveness when I managed to faint a couple of hours into the second leg. I recommend passing out as an effective, though slightly extreme, way to get a nice lie down if you're fed up with being cramped in your seat. The less said about the waiting lines in Customs in Perth Airport, the better, apart from the fact that it puts a serious dampener on your excitement at coming home, and must create a rotten first impression of Australia for new arrivals. This was sad, as the Brits on board had been just about orgasmic at the prospect of 24 degrees at 6pm in the evening.
 
Fortunately we discovered that our passports had microchips and we could go through the self-check-in, leaving all the other poor passengers seething in their endless slow-motion queues. The it was out into the clear air and the lovely balmy evening. In spite of the slightly jarring discovery that I'd let my driving licence lapse, our car-hire proceeded smoothly and off we went, back on the left hand side like we'd never had to change.


It was a very weird feeling to be driving through a familiar cityscape where we felt like strangers - tourists in our own home town. But I'll save the Australian travelogue for the next blog. It really is great to be back!
 

Wednesday, 5 December 2012

Ponton Deux



How fortunate we were to end up on Ponton #2 at Cap Monastir with all the live-aboard French families. There is always some interesting project underway, whether it’s Olivier constructing his own fibreglass dinghy, Laurent repairing sails, Giles building new cupboards, Christine’s awesome sewing or even the children’s projects ; and these are not just building sessions, they are social events with much conferring, lending of materials and offering of advice, not to mention regular breaks for food and drinks. DIY skills are taken for granted – it seems to be the mark of a real French sailor to be able to make or fix anything yourself.
 

It’s also a matter of pride to be able to cook, and we have been privileged to sample the wonderful dishes that issue constantly from tiny boat galleys and grills – tartes, crepes and gateaux as well as great salads, fish dishes and pasta. Last Sunday’s cook-out on Ponton Deux saw us feasting on ourcins (sea urchins which Guy and Giles had dived for that morning) and seches (cuttlefish cooked with peppers and pasta) followed by crepes doused in delicious home-made orange liqueur. And several bottles of wine, of course. We contributed fennel and artichokes grilled in the delicious local olive oil – thankfully these passed the required culinary standards and were pronounced ‘tres bons’.
 

Last week we took the train to Mahdia and toured the huge Friday market with Olivier and Lauren. I bought a much-needed warm blanket for 15 dinar (it even has special symbols to ward off the Evil Eye) and our friends picked up a good sewing machine for 70 dinar, after a bit of gentle haggling. We also bought loads of dried fruits and nuts, including some black figs which are brushed with olive oil before sun-drying, and are totally delicious, especially stuffed with walnuts and fresh cheese. Mahdia has a spectacular old cemetery spreading over the cliffs on a high peninsula, and a fishing boat harbour carved out of the limestone rock below it. We wandered through the town and enjoyed a very good lunch of fresh fish, chicken and cous-cous (along with all the usual extras of bread, harissa, olives etc etc) at El Moez restaurant, before taking the train back to the marina.

Well it’s just a week now until we head home, and we’re so looking forward to seeing everyone. Just don’t expect to see the trim, taut figures who completed the Atlantic crossing – as you can tell from this post, we’ve been eating a little too well for that!

Wednesday, 28 November 2012

Beer Review #8 [Terry]


 
Monsieur le Capitaine has been hard at it, sampling brews for your edification:
 
 
Cergal


 
Same people who brew Sagres in all its permutations.  Cheap Dutch style pale lager.

Nice cold


Cruzcampo

This is a great beer, and a source of great pride to Andalusians and other Spanish to a lesser extent.  Cold it is superb and in a big glass goes down well.  Always opt for ‘Grande’ when asked as a ‘Pequeño’ is way too little to do anyone any good.

From Wiki:-

Cruzcampo Brewery


Cruzcampo is considered to be the biggest beer producer in Spain. Founded in 1904 by Roberto Osborne and Agustín Osborne in Seville, takes the name of La Cruz del Campo (The Cross of the Field), which used to be a cross in the middle of the field, which still stands today next to the brewery in Seville.[22]

Nowadays it is part of the Heineken corporation who bought it from Guinness, however Spanish people, especially Southerners, regard Cruzcampo as the national pride and is the most consumed. Cruzcampo can be found anywhere in Spain, but it is in Andalusia where it is most consumed. It has breweries in Seville, Madrid, Valencia, Jaén and Arano. The actual logo is the figure of Gambrinus, who is the legendary creator of beer, since 1926. Before it was the original cross in the field.[23]

Beers also made:

  • Cruzcampo: Pilsen type
  • Cruzcampo Shandy: beer with lemonade (similar to the German Radler)
  • Cruzcampo Export
  • Cruzcampo Alcohol Free
  • Big Cruzcampo
  • El León
  • Krone Lager
  • Spieler Pils


Mahou / San Miguel


 

Mahou is OK stuff.  Perhaps a little like Bintang but not quite as sweet, just headed in the same direction.  I didn’t try the San Miguel, as I wrongly assumed it was simply the Philippines beer I already knew.  However, I now know it is not, it is a Spanish beer – it came out of the Manila Agreement signed between the two breweries in the early 50s.

 

San Miguel

I have now tried San Miguel.  It is the same as San Miguel in Asia.  Which I like no matter which side of the world I’m on.

 
Flag Speciale

This is a Moroccan beer and is brewed in Fes, where all great Moroccan craftsmen come from.  Comes in small bottles where we are (240ml).  5.2%.  Not bad stuff at all.  I don’t know how much it cost because it was tied up in our supermarket purchase/s of 2 cartons of long life milk, 3 packets of potato chips and 4 bottles of Flag.  All up it was $11.99 so I don’t think they cost that much.


Stork

This is supposedly Morocco’s premier beer.  It’s not bad but a little sweet for me and for mine Flag is better.  Nowhere near as crap as VB but not something I’d chase down.  Pity, I’ve got a carton to get through.

 
John Smith Extra Smooth

On tap here in Gib.  Nice but not a lot of flavor – more a publican’s beer, as you could down three or four and they still wouldn’t be in danger of serving an intoxicated person.

 
Old Speckled Hen

This is an old favourite of mine – Carey Park Liquor Store always has it in cans but at Australian prices.  Here in Gibraltar, even with their more-than-Spanish prices it was only about a £ for a half or about $2.00.

 

Lancaster Bomber


 
Well, I just had to get this one and toast Dad’s weapon of choice.  Perhaps he didn’t quite choose it and just got assigned to it.  Great stuff.  You should read the wiki on the Thwaites family.  Genuine brewers for a couple of hundred years and fighting back against the giants.  They have a strong presence in hotels and supermarkets too.

The ale itself is rich and nutty.  I let it warm a tiny bit as it got a bit too cold in the fridge and it was excellent.

 

Theakston’s Old Peculier.

Like Speckled Hen, one of my favourite British ales.  Could drink this stuff on and on and wouldn’t get bored.  Genuine class act, with richness, caramels and some bitterness.  Good with pies, casseroles and roasts.  Good on its own, too, with bar snacks.

 
Fuller’s London Pride.

We had an electrician on the boat yesterday dealing with all that Dark Arts stuff from Hogwarts.  Comes on the boat as 240, goes through a magic yellow box, turns into 115  but if you turn it off it still comes in as 55 because it’s a something-something-middle-something.  Worked out well because he got a boot part way through and said that despite it hurting he wasn’t dead.  No idea.  Anyway, Jim fixed whatever was ailing the box and told us that as he’s a north Londoner his favourite tipple is London Pride.  Wandered into a restaurant in Casemates Square that very night after seeing Steak and Ale pie on the menu and blow me down there’s London Pride on tap no less.  Had a couple with dinner.  Very nice drop.  Easy to drink with a bit of kick.

 
The Cannon Bar

We had a very tiring day climbing all over this Rock visiting St Michael’s Cave, Jew’s Gate, the Botanical Gardens, the Siege Tunnels and finally the Moroccan Castle.  Damn we walked a passel of miles for sure.

 
Coming down the back lanes and winding roads of Upper Gibraltar we came across “The Cannon” bar.  I was reluctant to stop at first as it is a Fosters branded pub and I thought if someone found out I was Australian I’d be blamed for launching that crap on the English speaking world (someone actually came in while we were there and ordered one!!)

Anyway, I had a John Smith Extra Smooth again and Carol had a Kronenburg.  I’ve had that before, years ago, and found it a bit light.  After our walking, that’s exactly what Carol wanted and she pronounced it suitable for a leg-weary lady on a hot day.  A bit on the flat side but nonetheless refreshing.  From memory it’s about the only French beer I know but I don’t have wiffy so I can’t check it online.

 

I also had a Graymer’s “Olde English” cider, made by people who’ve been making Cider since 1770, or before Australia was found by Cook.  Nice and crisp and very sharp.

 

The bar manager, Matt, was from Northern Ireland and he wrote down somewhere for me to visit when I get there.  Bushmill’s Distillery!  Had to tell him it was already high up on the list as I’ve been a Black Bush drinker for years.  Very nice chappie.  He passed me a bottle of something made in Mexico with no label, only a label around the throat of the bottle.  Says Cerveza, made in Mexico, lists the usual beer ingredients and advises that it’s imported to Spain by Colebrook S.L. into Madrid.  He said he doesn’t know how they get it, it just sort of “appears” and they give it to friends and friends of friends.  I’ll cool it down and drink it after we finish the next leg of the voyage.  Then I had another John Smith Extra Smooth just for fun.

 

Estrella Galicia

What a find this was on a warm and lazy Sunday afternoon in Adra.  This is heading for my new favourite-most beer in the world.  I had two Grande and Carol had two pequeno.  For tapas, I had a potato with herbs and sour cream (magnificent!!) and then a potato salad with tuna mixed through the mayonnaise and a fried pork and chips dish.  Carol had a tapas of a small piece of fried fish with the same sour cream to dip in.  I went to ask the chappy how much and he said €10.  Seriously, for 4 beers, (two large, two small) and 4 tapas dishes - $12 or so.  In the middle of all this we had an interlude with the Guardia Civil, our first brush with the law to date (see the blog for Adra)

Back to the beer – this is excellent on a warm day.  Strong and full of flavor – like a well rounded version of Corona which can be a bit on the weak side depending on the shipment.  Enough almost to make you want to move to Spain.  Apart from the food, the wine, the beaches, the price of apartments, the price of cars..  I could go on. (note:- Corona in Spain is known as Coronita – same beer, though)

 

Alhambra Premium Lager


Made in Granada.  I thought this would be a supermarket beer, brewed to a price not a recipe but it’s actually quite good.  As usual, cheap by the dozen, and a nice drop indeed.

 
Steinburg “Classica”


 
This one is brewed to order for a supermarket, Mercadona to be precise.  It’s brewed in Valencia.  It’s supposed to look German, with Lions Rampant in the background and Teutonic lettering.  It’s as German as I am.  Don’t know why they can’t call it Valencia and be done with it – the Spanish make decent beer and have nothing to be tipping their hats to the Germans for, even though the Allemagnes do make some of the world’s finest brews.

The company is one of Spain’s biggest brewers and gets most of its business from “Private Labels”.  This sounds cool, like you have your own wine pressing but all it means is that if you are Coles or Woolworths you get to have Coles or Woolworths or anything else you want on the label.

Despite the cool-trendy escapees from the wine appreciation sites who now monopolise the beer sites criticizing it for being mass-market stuff, it’s actually quite good.  I bought a carton, luckily, because we are no longer in Spain and I can’t get it again for a while.

 

Celtia

Société de fabrication des boissons de Tunisie

(that’s just French for “the mob that makes the drinks for Tunisia”)

 
Tunisian beer.  When I first had one I found it very yeasty and because of that a bit amateurish.  However, our local “wifi” restaurant ran out of Becks and only had Heineken and Celtia.  I refuse to drink Heineken with the preservative in it so I had Celtia.  It was actually quite good so I must have had a fresh batch first up.  Had it a few times since then (still no Becks) and don’t mind it at all.


“33”

Société de fabrication des boissons de Tunisie

 
A French beer.  Blonde.  I assumed 33 meant 3.3%.  Silly me – I should have guessed that there is no word in French for Low Alcohol, not a word for Low Fat and no word for Low Carb.  This stuff is 7% and packs a wallop.  Here in the supermarket it’s 1.290TD or 80c for a 210ml can (most of their beers here are in these skinny cans).  Surprise #2 – it’s actually brewed here in Tunisia.  They also brew Becks under licence so they know what they are doing. 

 
SIDE RANT.

The ratings for Celtia include one by one wanker (you’re allowed to use wanker because the WA Supreme Court said so many years ago) who complained that it was the worst beer in the world, then proceeded to qualify this with high-falutin terms that made it sound like he knew shit from clay.

The Beer Review sites are full of these tossers.  They are very similar to the tossers you all know from Wine Appreciation sites – all “floral tones” and “notes of plum” and crap like that, only they don’t know the big words so they just bag everything.  They are the worst put-down sites I’ve ever come across.  If it’s not something from out-there that nobody else has found yet, it’s garbage.  I’d love to meet some of them in a bar one day.  Arnold (the Governator) had a term for them that I won’t repeat here but essentially even at 60 I’d be on the front foot with the insults with little fear of any consequences.

 

Tuesday, 20 November 2012

A Day Out in Sousse

 
One dinar each gets you a train ride (complete with whistles and uniformed conductors) up the coast to the ancient city of Sousse. Originally Phoenician, this fertile and strategic site has been occupied by the Carthaginians, Romans, Vandals, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, Arabs again, Spanish, French and again the Arabs. All have left traces, and the place to get a real sense of this is in the huge kasbah and medina of the old city. It's a beautiful structure, with golden sandstone walls that seem to flow in curves over the landscape, contrasting with the angularity of the more modern buildings. The medina has a very lively souk, with just about everything you can imagine for sale. I would so love a pet chameleon (to be named Karma, of course) but I don't know how well they take to life at sea.
 

The museum is a gem: a beautifully designed new building integrated into the old fortress, it houses a display of funeral artefacts from early Christian times and the most awesome collection of Roman mosaics, depicting scenes from myth and especially from everyday life. They are all made painstakingly from natural coloured stone (not glazed ceramics) and you can look at them for hours, noticing more and more little details.


Look again at that first image of Neptune with his sea-horses - did you notice the resemblance?


One mosaic depicts a head of Medusa, and it's displayed with a big overhead mirror - so the viewer doesn't run the risk if being turned to stone! I really enjoyed a huge mosaic showing four famous gladiators, all named, fighting four leopards - also named and, apparently, equally famous. In the middle of the picture is a bloke with a pile of moneybags, which suggests to me that it was the Roman equivalent of World Championship Wrestling.


Unfortunately the Khalef Tower was closed, so we didn't get to experience what must be an incredible view over the harbour and the whole Bay of Hammamet. We've learnt to be philosophical about the arbitrary nature of opening and closing hours in this part of the world - often those frustrating efforts to do one thing turn into interesting adventures doing something else.

We enjoyed a coffee on a lovely broad promenade in the town centre, where a very obliging waiter ran off to a patisserie to get us some cakes when they didn't have any on the menu. Of course we got sold a few things by persuasive (but not aggressive or intrusive) vendors throughout the day - massive lumps of almond toffee and the Tunisian version of Turkish Delight, one of those Arab headscarf thingies that Terry has always wanted, a French dictionary, a few presents, some fruit ...

And finally a pleasant walk to the station along the waterfront at sunset and a crowded, but always interesting, train ride back to our marina.

Tuesday, 13 November 2012

Blowing a Gale

Nestled in here in our winter haven, shopping and cooking, socialising, tinkering and wandering around the medina, you could almost forget you were living on a boat. Until the weather makes its presence felt, of course. It's now been blowing a gale for 48 hours, with winds 40 - 50 knots inside the marina and over 55 out at sea. Several tonnes of Libya, in the form of fine grit, is coating everything. One of our mooring lines snapped and we're temporarily tied up to the vacant boat next door, until divers can get to the line in the morning; and to make matters worse, all the floating plastic rubbish in the Bay of Hammamet seems to have been blown into a heap at our stern. We're rocking and rolling and the wind is blowing a full orchestra of noises through the mass of masts and rigging in the marina. Yes we're definitely living on a boat - I'm just glad we're safely tied up in here, not out there. Thanks to everyone who gave us the good advice to be in a safe harbour by November!

Mausoleum of Tunisia's first president, at sunset

One of the little things I really enjoy about travelling is the variety of amusing signs and brand names you see everywhere. China was a real treat with Pansy brand men's undies, a vile wine called "Enduring Pulchritude", the endearing little sign that greeted us on a low doorway each morning: "Look Out Knockhead!" and many many more. On this trip, after the slight disappointment that we didn't have time to anchor in El Fartass, I've really appreciated the coffee brands - just finished a pack of "Carrion" from Morocco and now we're into the Spanish with our morning "Bonka". I'll be a bit sorry when that's finished. The Tunisian pack looked promising with its flourish of Arabic script, but I'm told it just means "Grandmother".
The Ribat, visible from everywhere in Monastir. "The Life of Brian" was filmed here.

In good weather it's quite lovely here. I'll do a proper tourist blog shortly - and then it will be time to head home. Buying our tickets tomorrow!