Monday 29 October 2012

Old Gods of the Med


Maybe it was the sensory deprivation of several long days at sea, but I looked out at the breaking dawn on Tuesday to see an astonishing cloudscape. A rim of flat grey clouds circled the whole horizon, resembling a vast circular table, and around this conference table, formed from great pillars of white, grey and rose-gold cumulus, sat the whole pantheon of Greek gods. There was Zeus, his great muscular arms raised to wield a thunderbolt; Poseidon with his robes and beard like turbulent waves;  Diana, virginal in wispy white; Bacchus with his crown of vines, raising a cup; Aphrodite leaning back lasciviously, hair tumbling over her generous breasts;  Hades, ominous in billowing  black; Hera, arms folded, frowning regal disapproval on the rest of the gathering …

If I had been an ancient  Mediterranean mariner, I’d have had no trouble believing in the old pagan gods – their presence is everywhere.  The sea is calm as Apollo’s golden chariot rises from the waves and begins its daily journey westwards. With little warning the dark clouds pile up; Zeus roars and lightning bolts split the heavens, while his brother Poseidon stirs the waves to fury with his trident. There’s just time to chant an invocation and sacrifice a goat or two before Aeolus bags up the wind again, the sky clears and the sea glitters deep blue. The old gods were just as capricious and changeable as the weather (and the people) they ruled.

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