Kekova, Turkey

Our first landfall in Turkey was in Kekova Roads, a large lagoon protected by an offshore island. As we motored past the gulets moored in the harbour to anchor in the eastern end of the lagoon, we were amazed to see dozens of large stone sarcophagi nestled amongst the craggy hillsides. These are the remnants of the Lycian civilization, which reached its height about 3000 years ago. The Lycians were apparently renowned as fine sailors and fierce warriors, fighting to the last man and destroying their own cities rather than surrendering. When finally subdued by the Romans, Lycia was respected as an independent state. It seems to have been a particularly well managed state, with a matriarchal social structure and a functioning democracy - several of the USA's founding fathers referred to Lycia when drafting the Constitution and setting up the Republic. It is fascinating to imagine what life might have been like for the people whose tombs now line this haunted coastline. There is a famous walking trail, the Lycian Way, from Fethiye to Antalya, part of which we are planning to walk during our winter here. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lycian_Way

Along with the tombs, there is a Crusader castle , a harbour full of yachts, Turkish gulets and fishing boats, a line of good restaurants around the bay with a traditional village nested in behind them and a vast backdrop of rugged mountains. When we were there the conditions were perfect – calm and sheltered with good holding and a gentle breeze to cool things down in the afternoons. Great for swimming or taking the kayak along the shoreline to watch the sea turtles and vivid azure kingfishers in the early morning light.

 

On the first evening we made a point of visiting Ibrahim’s Restaurant, recommended to us by a French cruiser who had visited Kekova 35 years before when the restaurant was run by Ibrahim senior . The food and the views over the harbour were still fine. The village here has a few tourist stalls, but a street back from the water it is very simple and traditional, with the people tending their gardens, goats and chickens and elderly folk sitting watching the world go by.

The trek up to the top of the castle was interesting, the path winding up through a small village of strategically placed cafes and stalls, and spectacular views from the walls of the whole island and the surrounding coastline – strategic also for the knights defending it, of course. From up here, the whole burial complex was visible, with stone sarcophagi dotting the hillsides amongst gnarled old olive trees and even in the water, where the sea had reclaimed parts of the ancient landscape.

Well, after a few days it was time to head for our winter haven in Finike. Common Sense is looking a bit shabby, algae and salt-encrusted and in need of repairs to her bow-thruster, VHF radio and a replacement anchor chain for dealing with the very deep, steep-to anchorages typical of these parts. Our Hydrovane was damaged on the island of Kythnos and needed straightening and there are a hundred-and-one other things to get to after the year's cruising.  Our Google Earth track tells us that we've done 1,734 Nautical Miles this year since leaving Monastir, Tunisia.