To Market, to Market ... Boat Life #3

Of course the one thing we definitely WON'T find in the market here is anything to do with pigs - although I did read that Tunisia's only pig farm is close by, in Cap Bon. It is supposed to be heavily protected, but whether that's to stop the 'unclean' animals escaping or desperate Frenchmen breaking in to cut off a slice or two, I'm not sure. So, shopping. There are supermarkets here, as nearly everywhere, and it's always interesting to see what products are different (eg lots of varieties of couscous, chickpeas and halva, no oatmeal) but a trip to the market for fresh produce is much more interesting, as well as cheaper, fresher and more directly supportive of the local farmers. The daily markets near the medina in Monastir are excellent, with a huge area dedicated to fresh fish, lots of seasonal fruit and veges, dried fruits, nuts and legumes, and fresh meat and poultry. Halal meat is bled dry and ideally sold within a day of killing, so it tends to be tough and not so tasty. Further offputting is the head of the slaughtered beast which is often hung at the front of the stall to demonstrate freshness. I'm not squeamish about where my food comes from, but I'd really rather not look into its eyes, thanks. Poultry and fish, by contrast, are excellent.

On Saturday mornings there is a really big souk just out of town. This is where you see farm produce in bulk, and where local families come to buy up for the week. In addition to the food stalls, there are clothing, fabrics, kitchenware, tools, second hand goods and just about anything else you might want, generally at bargain prices. Sadly, a lot of the stuff for sale is junk made in China (like everywhere else on the planet), such a contrast to the beautiful Tunisian fabrics and ceramics - but much cheaper and more 'modern'. In a land which makes some of the most gorgeous carpets in the world, people buy hideous, garish nylon rugs for their homes. [Sigh] I guess that's the global economy for you.

Sea of plastic

 

At yesterday's souk, I bought navel oranges which are at the height of their season and delicious, cauliflower, peppers, spinach, fennel, zucchinis, giant multicoloured carrots, and celery - a special surprise for Terry as we haven't been able to find it before. With chicken breasts from our favourite poultry seller, we made a terrific stir-fry for dinner.

 

 

Contrary to popular belief, it is quite easy to buy alcohol here (except on Fridays), and Tunisia produces a decent local beer and some acceptable wines. And of course, being a former French colony, there are good French wines as well as excellent bread, pastries and icecream. Good cheese is harder to find, the local taste being on the bland side, but we have found a trader in the market who imports good strong cheese. We really enjoy the seasonality of market produce - strawberries are just starting to appear, signalling the beginning of spring - and time to cook a gateau fraise!