We’ve
been back on Common Sense in Licata
for almost a month but we’ve been boat-bound for a lot of that time by wet,
windy weather and a particularly bad bout of man-flu for Terry. He’s only just
starting to recover with the first of the very welcome spring sunshine. The
situation has been redeemed somewhat by the pleasant company of the
international cruising community here, with all the usual happy hours, Sunday
barbecues, fitness groups and other activities, along with typical Sicilian
life in the town. On a normal day we might have a morning Pilates class with
Dave, then a ten minute walk into town to pick up a few oranges or tomatoes
from Frutteria Rosso or bread from the paneria, followed by a coffee at any
number of great little cafes. There is usually a bit of boatwork to do – fixing
something, cleaning or working on some improvement project. Lunch – soup,
bread, cheese or whatever is good at the market – then rest, read, write, play
boules or molkke, whatever you like until it’s time for a drink with friends, a
passegiata around town, perhaps a
meal at one of the many restaurants ranging from simple pizzerias to some very
fine dining. A film from our ridiculously large collection, maybe, then sleep
to the gentle rocking of the boat. Or in a few recent cases, heeling to
starboard and listening to the wind howl. The marina is well constructed so at
least we haven’t had any swell to deal with.
Walking
around town is a pleasure. Almost everyone nods or greets you with a buongiorno or buona sera, and the well-to-do older people especially dress in
their smart clothes to go for a stroll. Three quarter coats, smart hats and
fine shoes are the look for both ladies and gents. Young people are pretty
stylish – even five year olds have trendy soccer star haircuts and wear their
scarves just right. The old blokes hang out at the cafes, just as they do
through the entire Mediterranean, but here they are welcoming and jovial rather
than stern-faced and a bit threatening as they are in some places. Shop keepers
and restaurateurs treat you like their long lost best friend – a sign of hard
financial times, perhaps, but I think it is the authentic Siciliano character,
generous and expressive. Terry has become very close friends with the nice lady
in the central Farmacia.
I always enjoy the little architectural surprises that
you find in towns that have been lived in for a very long time.
So
now we are just awaiting a new battery, then after the Easter celebrations (the
crucified Christ icon will be carried through town this evening then he’s due
to rise for another parade on Sunday) we will head off by land for a bit of
sight-seeing. The plan is to do the Montalbano
tour next – we’ll keep you posted.
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